The most beautiful room in Beverly Hills is closing on Dec 23.
Last night, I had my final dinner there. National Treasure Chef Thomas Keller and his gorgeous wife Laura Cunningham were in the house, as were many many other admirers of Bouchon, one of the best restaurants in Southern California (Buck Henry was celebrating his 89th birthday with a large group including George Siegel!).
Some of the usual suspects came together to show love, and we brought wine. As always, the food was perfect. The highlight was when Chef Keller brought us the Bocuse D’Or winning chicken (the American team, coached by Chef Keller, won first prize in Lyon for this dish at the 2017 Bocuse D’Or competition). Needless to say, this dish is sublime (the first time the Americans have ever won the Bocuse D’Or!).
We started with three Montrachets — the 2002 Marc Colin was a beautiful wine, with well resolved tannins and a very silky texture — subtle apples and pears and just very enjoyable.
Next up were two 2014 Leflaives which we ordered off the list. The Batard was very forward yet totally together and a great opening act for the Chevalier, which was singing — filled with energy and heavyosity — it is a textbook example of great young Leflaive Chevalier.
We had all the above with the Seafood Tower — Bouchon is the perfect wine food — simple, fresh, elegant — as I have said many times.
Next up was a magnum of 1982 La Lagune (Medoc!). I bought a case of these Magnums at auction and have been drinking them all year. Surprisingly fantastic. Everyone loved the wine (especially the girls — it is a perfect “girl wine” really easy and pleasing — not too complicated) — and it is beautiful example of 82 Medoc. Warning: the 750 size bottles are not nearly as great (i.e. stay away from those). We had some of the amazing pate and most everyone ordered salmon tartare or butter lettuce salad.
We did the Magnum of 72 Patriarche Musigny side by side with the 1989 Rousseau Chambertin Clos De Beze. The dishes were the famous roast chicken and steak frites. The 72 was a real surprise — in fact, 72 burgundies have been surprising me quite a bit lately, in a good way. I believe this is a negociant bottling — subtle, not a huge amount of terroir, but pleasing nevertheless. 72 Burgs are very under the radar. The WOTN for me was the 1989 Rousseau Chambertin Clos De Beze. This brilliantly made wine seems to transcend vintage (i.e. I have never had a bad bottle no matter what vintage) — although the 1993 may be one of the most spectacular chambertins ever made. This 89, while not as razor sharp and transparent as, say, the 93, was packed with dark fruit, perfectly balanced acidity, and absolutely mouth coatingly deep and delicious.
LONG LIVE BOUCHON BH.