
80s Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet: 1983; 1986; and 1990 (this was a Batard). These are amongst the best whites ever produced by a gifted wine maker — the 1983 was sublime and elegant — it’s balance was almost perfect. Next was the 86 — what I said before, only a little less so. The Batard was delicious, but not in the league with the first two. After 1990 I do not care for the wines made by Leflaive. One of the best flights of white, period.
OFF THE SAISON LIST: We scored an amazing deal on a 1978 Vieu Telegraph, which was an incredibly perfect bottle and pretty much salvaged the red wine portion of the night (most of the reds were NG).
Honorable mention goes to the 1982 DRC Grand Echezaux — DRC Grand Eche is a under the radar sleeper and in certain years, in terms of bang for buck, a really great deal. 82 was not known as a great year, yet I found the wine rather interesting, and ultimately, quite nice with the food.
As I have said before, SAISON is one of the best restaurants in America — and this dinner was no exception. Kudos to our fantastic Sommelier, Thatcher, who did a bang up job. Highlights included Caviar with Kelp, Giant Prawns, and Uni Toast. The Chef’s cooking is very subtle, light, and extremely elegant. I find Saison better suited to Champagnes and white wines because of Chef’s emphasis on seafood and his light touch.

